The lack of diversity on the Fashion Runway

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The lack of diversity on the Fashion Runway

10/14/2007

Fashion & Style / Fashion Shows

Runways Fade to White

By GUY TREBAY

Published: October 14, 2007

If there is one area where the lessons of chromatic and racial diversity have gone largely unheeded, it is fashion.

"...Although black women in the United States spend more than $20 billion on apparel each year, according to estimates by TargetMarketNews.com, it was hard to discern an awareness of this fact on the part of designers showing in New York, where black faces were more absent from runways than they have been in years..."

"...The exclusion is rarely subtle. An agent for the modeling firm Marilyn once told Time magazine of receiving requests from fashion clients that baldly specified 'Caucasians only'..."

"...The message is not always so blatant these days, but it is no less clear. Take for example the case of two young models, one white, one black, both captivating beauties at the start of their careers. Irina Kulikova, a feline 17-year-old Russian, appeared on no fewer than 24 runways in New York last month, a success she went on to repeat in Milan with 14 shows, and in Paris with 24 more. Honorine Uwera [In the second picture below], a young Canadian of Rwandan heritage, was hired during the New York season for just five runway shows.

While Ms. Uwera’s showing was respectable, it was not enough to justify the cost to her agency of sending her to Europe, where most modeling careers are solidified..."

Photograph by Gonzalo Fuentes/Reuters; photo Illustration by The New York Times
THE LINEUP At recent spring shows, black models were scarce or nonexistent, including at the Chloé show in Paris, above.

Firstview
FRESH FACE Honorine Uwera was hired for five New York shows, too few to justify a trip to Europe.

I didn't know about this trend in the fashion industry until reading a post from Styln's blog. Now I don't know much about the fashion industry but I do know I don't like their subliminal messages they are imposing on young impressionable women of color telling them that to be a true beauty you must be white, blond and as thin as a wafer. To me beauty comes in all shades and sizes.
I look at the pictures of Honorine Uwera (pictured above) and I see a stunning black princess. Who wound not want her on the runway sporting some fashion designer's wears?

You know it always seems like we are moving ahead as a society but then you read stories like this about how women of color are being treated in the fashion world and it is like taking 10 or 50 steps back to like the 1920s or something.

I think it is time people of color started calling for respect in this matter and boycott any designer that is willing to take our money but is not willing to take the time to have one of us featured in their clothes. Support fashion designers who encourage diversity among their lines of clothing. Hit the one to ignorant for their own good where it hurts the most, in their purse/wallet!

Source:
NYT

10/14/2007 11:43 PM | Blog it | News and politics

Comments (8)

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	chocolate_matterswrote: What happened in NC? I did not hear about that. I wonder how effective that boycott will be. I also think that the fashion industry doesn't know how to dress black women. Let's face people women of color and white women are totally different when it comes to size and shape. In my opinion white women can't wear what women of color can wear and vice versa. That's why is it good to have someone of color start a clothing line because they can address the negligent attitude that the fashion industry has towards women of color. Oct. 16
	Fay A. Bastienwrote: I have noticed this going on for quite sometime now. I am an ardent fan of Tyra Bank's America's Next Top Model, and I see that they try very hard to not make it look bad by keeping the "black" models almost to the end and make comments that I think are so damn tacky, but when it comes down to it, the other races always wins. Thus far, I think there were one or two black winners, who in my judgement bearly made it. But back to the point, for whatever reason, designers think their clothes look better on the models of other races. But then again, some of the crap that some of them design, it's better off being worn by exactly who they choose to wear it! As far as blacks and economic power goes, I just got an email asking BLACK folks not to buy anything whatsoever on November 2nd. It says that this is to show, of course, that we are a force to recon with and also for the Jena 6, the young woman who was kidnapped and raped in NC, another teen who got her hand broken by her teacher in CA for not picking cake off the floor at school and a few other recent in-justices done against blacks in America. Oh, one more thing, I'm trying to get used to the upgrades on MSN Spaces. I think "kinda" hot. At first I was like, "what the hell", but I'm feeling my way around slowly but surely. Oct. 16
	Stylnwrote: You're absolutely right, Blacks do have tremendous economic power as a whole. We just don't spend the bulk of our money on luxury items across the board. In most cases our biggest luxuries are beautiful homes and hot cars. We do spend a lot on clothes (especially women) but, I think we tend to spread it across the board to achieve the maximum effect (cause we have to do more with less). Like PEP said, if we better direct our spending as a group, the more economic power we will wield in the future. Oct. 15
	chocolate_matterswrote: Styln, I know I don't buy any expensive stuff like that. But I wouldn't downplay our ability to affect their bottom line though. I know that black people have huge purchasing power, we just put our money in the wrong places. Blackstarr, That's what I remember, Europe being a haven for people of color to get recognized. Somehow times have changed. Sheldon, Well the Asian model is two shades closer to being white than most of us are. Pep, I don't buy designer clothes as well, I'm not paying for someone's name on a piece of cloth. Oct. 15
	Stylnwrote: The problem with the majority of these BIG designers who favor white models is that they realize that their core customer is not Black. They don't often reach out for us because our clothing consumption doesn't include Haute Couture and in most cases their secondary ready-to-wear lines (still very costly). They won't represent us on the runway because we don't substantially affect their bottom line. The truth is that many top Black designers like Tracey Reese operate under this same situation (although she consistantly uses Black models on the runway). Many of us can't afford to pay $2,500 to $5,000 for a Tracey Reese coat let alone a $25,000 Dior or Chanel ball gown. They are racist because they can afford to be. Yet, there are some high fashion designers like Vera Wang (Khols), Issach Mizrahi (Target), Roberto Cavalli (H&M) and Stella McCartney (H&M) who are now designing special ready-to wear lines for the masses (but, you won't see these designs on a Fashion Week runway anywhere in the world). We (Blacks) tend to buy aspriational or near luxury ready-to-wear lines like BabyPhat, KLS, Guess, Coach, SeanJohn, Phat Farm and Argyle Culture (Urban Wear) etc. I'm not saying we never buy the expensive High fashion designer brands, but it's just not an everyday thing for most of us (I know I don't sit up in $5,000 dollar dresses and $1,000 dollar shoes on a daily basis). Oct. 15
	Joellewrote: Europe was once a place where a model of any shade could walk the runway and those runways were full of "us". They have since taken the same stance as the U.S. I think that one way that we can make a change is to "buy Black". There are many clothing lines that all the young people from my ghetto can't wait to get their hands on. If these Hip/Hop designers and clothing lines would sponsor their own shows, for those who buy their clothes, things would begin to change. As well, I don't buy designer clothes (except shoes - must have my Stacy Adams'), but it certainly would do me well to see some of my faces back on the runway. Peace. Oct. 15
	Sheldon Xwrote: I occasionally manually go up & down the analog cable channels & sometimes I stumble upon the Style Channel and there is a Runway show showcasing the latest designers fashions and all of the models are white and sometimes you may see a Asian model - It's all the time - Oct. 15
	PEPwrote: I do not purchase designer clothes but if I did I would heed your warning. I read an article about this group called 'the Compact' which has vowed to not buy anything for a year (I think they buy food and medical necessities) or if they buy something it has to be second hand. I don't know if I'd be able to do an entire year but I'm seriously thinking about trying it for maybe a month or two. Oct. 15

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